Common Questions
Central Vacuum Buying FAQ
What is air watts and why is it better than horsepower?
Air watts measure actual cleaning power delivered at the brush head — the combination of both suction (water lift) and airflow (CFM). Horsepower only measures motor input power, not what reaches the floor. Two units with identical HP ratings can have wildly different air watts depending on motor efficiency. Always compare air watts when shopping — it is the only apples-to-apples spec. For reference: 400–500 air watts suits most homes under 2,000 sq ft; 600–800 air watts covers 3,000–5,000 sq ft homes with heavy carpet and pets.
How many inlets does my home actually need?
Each inlet covers a radius of about 25–30 feet with a standard 30-foot hose. A good rule: one inlet per 600–800 sq ft on each floor, with extras near high-traffic areas like kitchens and main hallways. Most installers underprovide inlets to cut costs — this is the most common complaint from central vacuum owners. Budget for at least one extra inlet per floor and position them so no room requires dragging the hose around corners.
Bagged vs bagless vs cyclonic — which should I choose?
Bagged systems are best for allergy and asthma sufferers — dust stays sealed in the bag and is disposed of without contact. Bagless (filtered) systems require emptying a canister which releases fine dust back into the air — problematic for sensitive households. Cyclonic systems spin debris out of the airstream before it reaches the filter, extending filter life significantly, but still require emptying. For allergy households: always choose bagged. For convenience without allergy concerns: cyclonic is low maintenance. Bagless is generally the least recommended for indoor installation.
Should the exhaust vent outside or be filtered inside?
Venting outside is significantly better for air quality — 100% of fine particles and allergens are expelled from the home entirely. Filtered indoor exhaust keeps the exhaust inside the home and relies on the filter to catch everything. Even HEPA-filtered indoor units recirculate some microscopic particles. If allergy or asthma is a concern, always vent outside. If outside venting is impossible due to basement location or building rules, choose a true HEPA-filtered unit as the next best option.
Can I install a central vacuum in an existing home myself?
Yes, but it requires drilling through walls, floors, and ceilings to run PVC tubing. In a single-storey home with an accessible crawlspace or basement, DIY retrofit is very achievable — expect 1–2 full days. Multi-storey retrofits are significantly harder because tubing must travel between floors through interior walls. If you are comfortable with basic carpentry and can access wall cavities, DIY can save $800–$1,500 in labor. If walls are plaster, brick, or the home is multi-storey without accessible voids, professional installation is worth the cost.
What hose length do I actually need?
The standard 30-foot hose covers most rooms adequately with well-placed inlets. A 35-foot hose gives extra reach for larger rooms without needing an additional inlet. A 50-foot "pigtail" hose covers very large open-plan areas from a single inlet but is heavy and cumbersome to handle. For most homes: 30 feet is the right choice. Only go to 35 feet if any single room exceeds 400 sq ft or if you have vaulted spaces. Avoid 50-foot hoses unless your layout genuinely cannot accommodate a second inlet.
Is a central vacuum really worth it vs a regular upright?
Central vacuums deliver 3–5x more suction than portable vacuums because the motor is unrestricted by a small chassis and does not recirculate exhaust into the room. The hose and head weigh 5–8 lbs vs 15–20 lbs for a full upright — a major advantage for stairs and large homes. They last 20–30 years vs 8–12 years for a quality upright. The breakeven point vs replacing uprights every decade is typically 10–15 years. For homes over 2,000 sq ft, the convenience and air quality improvement make central vacuum the better long-term investment.